If you stay at the Teo Hotel in Battambang, you're going to have to follow a few rules.

Oh, and one more rule. No durian fruit!

Julian standing in the central part of the ruined temple at Ek Phnom, near Battambang. He's holding the skin of a tiny scorpion which was sitting on a lintel, hence he is uneasy and wishes this photo would be taken a little quicker.

A fantastic lintel at Ek Phnom. Most of the lintels in all the temples right across the country follow this basic pattern -- a monster with a plant coming out of his mouth and assorted gods, apsara, creatures etc. in the background, but every single one is different.

Some kids playing on the steps of Wat Ek Phnom, the new temple at the site of the ruined Ek Phnom.

Down the winding river from Battambang and out across the Tonle Sap itself, you come to a 'floating village' at Prek Tol. Most of these houses are actually on very tall stilts up to 6 metres high. The boat stops at a store and you can hop out and buy a few things.

Prek Tol (there's a hundred ways to spell it but this is what's written above the local party HQ) is near a large bird sanctuary. This is the local way to get around. Our two large outboard motors caused a few of these craft to wobble severely in our wake.

Final approach to the wharf near Siem Reap. The hill in the background is Phnom Khrom, which you can see for miles around. Military junk still abounds in many areas of Cambodia.

Hopping off the boat at the wharf, which brought 15 of us and our luggage across the lake.